Bruges

Bell Tower, Markt

Bruges might be one of my favorite European cities. With winding cobblestone roads, narrow canals, and chocolatiers on every block, it makes for the perfect fairytale town. Amidst the grandeur of the Markt, it is easy to imagine its former self, a jousting arena.

Canals, Groenerei

Former Court of Justice, Burg

Iron Door Detail

Other Bruges Sights and Shops

Sights

~Basiliek van het Heilig-Bloed for ancient relics, 15 Burg

~Church of Our Lady for Michaelangelo’s Madonna and Child, Vrouwekerkhof Zuid

~Sint-Janshuis for a historical windmill

~Minnewater for lake swans in a picturesque park

Shops

~Bier Tempel for the world’s best beers, 7 Phillipstockstraat

~Deldycke for specialty foods, 23 Wollestraat

~Dille & Kamille for inexpensive homegoods, 18 Simon Stevinplein

~Maison Pickery for handmade lace, 8 Briedelstraat

A Love Affair with Liège Waffles

While the term, “Belgian waffle,” is pretty mainstream, last weekend in Brussels I discovered there are actually two types of waffles. The gaufre de Bruxelles is the light, airy version most familiar to Sunday brunchers. The other is the liège, a dense version with a caramelized exterior and chewy interior. I even scoured Brussels to find the special pearl sugar used to make these lovely waffles. Next, finding a 20-lb. professional cast iron waffle maker. In between devouring waffles, I managed to taste some other traditional Belgian foods. For a rustic meal, the boulettes and stoemp fit the bill. Who could resist hearty meatballs accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes and leeks. And on a laid back Sunday evening, I had a cast iron pot filled with moules and frites {mussels and fries}. Simple and fresh, steamed in white wine.

Elisabeth, 43 rue au Beurre

Les Brassins, 36 Rue Keyenveld

Chez Léon, 18 rue des Bouchers

Other Brussels Eats and Sweets

Eats

~L’Esprit de Sel for traditional Belgian and French dishes, 52 place Jourdan

~La Quincaillerie for a brasserie once frequented by Catherine Deneuve, 45 rue du Page

~Maison Antoine for frites, 1 place Jourdan

Sweets

~Le Pain Quotidien for baguettes and almond croissants, 11 rue des Sablons

~Maison Dandoy for butter cookies, 31 rue au Beurre

~Pierre Marcolini for chocolate-covered marshmallows, 1 rue des Minimes

~Wittamer for dainty cakes, 13 place du Grand Sablon

Brussels

Jardin d’Egmont

Coat: Marc by Marc Jacobs

Scarf: 12th Street by Cynthia Vincent

Boots: Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti

Handbag: Chloé

Brussels was a bustling mix of French and Dutch influences, from the triumphal arch to the Flemish townhomes or Art Nouveau districts. I loved the formalism, especially the impeccable Jardin d’Egmont or glass-roofed arcades in the Galeries Saint Hubert. Although it was a cold February weekend, it didn’t stop me from spending hours exploring the city.

Arc de Triomphe, Parc du Cinquantenaire

Roof Detail, Grand Place

Galeries Saint Hubert

Other Brussels Sights and Shops

Sights

~Cathedrale St. Michael and St. Gudula for a church modeled after Notre Dame

~L’Ilot Sacre to wander through the medieval streets

~Palais Royal to view the Dutch King’s palace

Shops

~Chine for silk dresses, 82 avenue Louise

~Marrolles for flea market finds, place du Jeu de Belle

~Mary for chocolates, 73 rue Royale

~Mmmh! for gourmet food and kitchenwares, 92 Chaussée de Charleroi

~Modes for vintage, 164 rue Blaes

~Place du Grand Sablon for a mix of specialty shops and cafés

Peekaboo

Sleek in the front, a back slit on a blouse or dress provides a little bit of glam. I’ve fallen for this Nina Ricci Open Back Printed Top. It has the perfect amount of ladylike sweetness with a hint of edge.

~French Connection: Caramel Cotton Bow Back Mini Dress

~Helmut Lang: Gravel Print Open Back Top

~Lucca Couture: Open Back Jumper

~Mango: Tie Back Silk Top

~Nina Ricci: Open Back Printed Top

~Topshop: Knitted Lace Open Back Top

S'mores Cupcakes

S'mores are good in any form. These cupcakes combine a graham cracker crumb bottom, dense chocolate cupcake, and gooey marshmallow frosting. They are super sweet...perfect.

S’mores Cupcakes Recipe

Cupcake
{Adapted from Martha Stewart}
2 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon cocoa powder (not Dutch-processed)
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 cup boiling water
1 cup graham cracker crumbs (from about 15 squares)
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

Frosting
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 (7 ounce) jars marshmallow cream
1 cup shortening
1 cup powdered sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla

For the cupcakes: preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 standard muffin tins with cupcake liners; set aside. Sift 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. In a large bowl, mix eggs, milk, oil, and vanilla. Add flour mixture and beat on medium, about 2 minutes. Add boiling water and stir to combine.

Place graham crackers in a large plastic bag. Crush with a rolling pin. Place graham cracker crumbs, remaining ¼ cup sugar, and melted butter in a large bowl; stir until combined. Place 1 tablespoon graham cracker mixture into the bottom of each muffin cup. Press down. Place 2 teaspoons chocolate in each muffin cup. Bake until golden, about 5 minutes. Remove from oven and fill each muffin cup three-quarters full with batter. Sprinkle each with remaining chocolate and graham cracker mixture. Bake until toothpick inserted comes out clean, about 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool completely.

For the frosting, mix marshmallow cream, shortening, powdered sugar, salt, and vanilla until combined. Transfer frosting to a large pastry bag fitted with a plain round tip. Pipe frosting in a spiral motion on each cupcake. Using a kitchen torch, lightly brown the frosting. Just like gooey s’mores.

Belgium

Photo from Wikimedia Commons

I'm off to Belgium this weekend. I'll be back next week with posts on sights, shops, and treats. I'm looking forward to frites, chocolates, and waffles.

Les Viennoiseries

Ladurée, 21 rue Bonaparte

In addition to a must do list, I often have a must eat list in Paris. Although still bustling, Ladurée on rue Bonaparte has a calming atmosphere. In the salon with exotic Asian murals and a canopied ceiling, I enjoyed a saint honoré rose framboise. Choux pastry and pastry cream are covered with rosewater whipped cream and raspberries. A few minutes away, Gerard Mulot’s cases are lined with endless rows of intricate desserts. I had a duo poire caramel, with caramel cream, pear, and a biscuit crust encased in caramel. In the glam 1^st arrondissement, Jean-Paul Hévin is a master chocolatier. The Longchamp praline combines hazelnut cake, praline buttercream, and meringue with chocolate and hazelnut coating. Long list of flavors, short time to devour.

Gérard Mulot, 76 rue de Seine

Jean-Paul Hévin, 231 rue Saint Honoré

Bistro Fare

Le Comptoir, 9 Carrefour de l'Odéon

Since first tasting the foie gras at Le Comptoir, it has become a regular stop on my visits to Paris. This time, I tried the pomme de terre foie gras with sliced potatoes between layers of rich duck liver. After hearing great reviews about Le Relais de l'Entrecôte, I walked into a dining room full of steak in buttery thyme cream sauce with pommes frites on silver platters set over tea lights. It was a perfect set-up for unlimited servings. Add a towering sundae, and I was stuffed.

Le Relais de l'Entrecôte, 20 rue Saint Benoit

Weekend in Paris

This past weekend, I was in Paris to pick up some favors and confirm details for my wedding next month. Plus, I’ll take any excuse to eat macarons from Ladurée, a millefeuille from Pierre Hermé, or a duo poire caramel from Gérard Mulot. While walking through the city, I also took some photos of things I spied in my wedding colors {muted green and charcoal grey}. More of my bistro and pâtisserie stops this week.

Be My Valentine

Although a delicate gold heart necklace or skinny ring are always welcome, here are some other sweet treats for Valentine’s Day. I especially love this Breakfast in Bed set from Fauchon in Paris. What a delightful way to start the day.

~Crate and Barrel: Cast Iron Fondue Set

~Fauchon: Breakfast in Bed Set

~Felt Jar: Love Owl

~June Designs: 14k Yellow Gold Skinny Ring

~MarieBelle: Signature Collection Truffles

~Michelle Chang Jewelry: 14k Gold Tiny Sideways Heart Necklace

~Oliver Blu Designs: French Bulldogs in Love Card

Schloss Biebrich

Fresco, “The Addition of Aeneas in Olympus”

The Schloss Biebrich is a beautiful baroque palace overlooking the Rhein River. Built in 1702, it was the former residence of the princes and dukes of Nassau. I was excited to attend a reception in the rotunda, complete with a frescoed dome and marble columns.

Rotunda

Gardens

Overlooking Rhein River

Rainy Day Games

Although drizzle puts a damper on outdoor fun, it was the perfect opportunity to take out my Pasotti umbrella. With its hidden floral pattern, gold ring closure, and Lucite handle, it’s a pick-me-up on a rainy day. Plus, it gave me more time to explore the grounds at the Schloss Biebrich. I paired it with a bronze silk dress and a pink coat that reminds me of a painter’s smock. Herringbone tights add some texture and these ankle boots have pretty fringe detailing. P.S. More on the palace tomorrow.

Coat: H&M

Dress: H&M

Umbrella: Pasotti

Tights: J Crew

Boots: J Crew

Handbag: Chloé

Bedside Manner

Nightstands offer a small niche to mix pretty things I collect while traveling with affordable décor. The French Legionnaires print from the Saint-Ouen Flea Market or candle from Cire Trudon always evoke lovely memories. Plus, my I’m a sucker for anything with a cameo.

Books: Vintage and The Little Bookroom

Candle: Cire Trudon

Carafe & Tumbler: Butler’s

Lamp: Target

Legionnaires Print: Vintage {from the Saint-Ouen Flea Market in Paris}

Milk Glass Tray: Vintage

Vase: Ikea

New Heights

I loved the wedge boot for fall, and the wedge platform sandal is perfect for spring. It will add some heights, but in comfort. I’m swooning over the Derek Lam T-Strap Leather Wedges with their elegant ease and deep caramel color.

~Derek Lam: T-Strap Leather Wedges

~Edmundo Castillo: Mesh Platform Wedge Espadrilles

~Fiorentini + Baker: Sool Wedge

~Kors Michael Kors: Lara Cutout Wedge Sandal

~Miu Miu: Stitched Wedge

Gourmet S'mores

I have fond memories of eating s’mores as a girl, with gooey marshmallow and melted chocolate sandwiched between graham crackers. For a gourmet spin on a classic treat, I used Miette’s recipe for buttery shortbread-like graham crackers. I toasted homemade vanilla marshmallows over a candle, and Amedei chocolate from Italy melted beautifully.

P.S. Miette is a lovely pastry shop in the San Francisco Ferry Building. Their first cookbook will be out soon.

Marshmallows

{Adapted from Martha Stewart}

2 1/2 Tbsp. unflavored gelatin

1 cup water

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup light corn syrup

1/4 tsp. salt

1 Tbsp. pure vanilla extract

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Graham Crackers

{Adapted from Miette via Piece of Cake}

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup whole wheat flour

1 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. cinnamon

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

1/4 cup honey

Milk chocolate bar

For the marshmallows, spray a glass or ceramic 8”x8” pan with cooking spray. Combine gelatin and 1/2 cup cold water in a large bowl. Let stand for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine granulated sugar, corn syrup, salt, and remaining 1/2 cup water in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir occasionally until sugar has dissolved. Attach candy thermometer, increase heat to medium, and cook without stirring until mixture reaches 244 degrees. Pour syrup into bowl with softened gelatin. Beat on high until thick and satiny, about 10 minutes. Add vanilla, and beat to incorporate. Pour into pan, and let stand at least 4 hours or overnight. Dust work surface with confectioners’’ sugar. Turn out onto surface, and cut with 1" round cutter dusted with confectioners’ sugar. Dust each marshmallow completely with confectioners’ sugar.

For the graham crackers, line baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk together flours, salt, and cinnamon. Set aside. In a separate bowl, cream butter and brown sugar until fluffy. Add honey, and beat until combined. Mix in dry ingredients in 2-3 additions until fully incorporated. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour. On a lightly-floured surface, roll dough to 1/8” thickness. Cut with a 2” fluted round cutter, and place on baking sheets about 1” apart. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Chill baking sheets for 30 minutes. Bake 15 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Let cool 5 minutes before transferring to wire rack to cool completely.

To prepare s’mores, using a metal skewer, toast marshmallows over a candle or barbecue flame. Place a chocolate square on one cookie. Use a second cookie to slide the marshmallow off the skewer and sandwich close. You’ll have no problem consuming it before the marshmallow cools. Makes 24 s’mores sandwiches.

Rainbow Brite

In contrast to some of the airy, neutral color palettes for spring, I’m also looking forward to the bold color trend. Roksanda Ilincic and TRIAS caught my eye with shades of tangerine and tomato, while A Détacher and Rachel Roy played up electric blues.

Photos from style.com

Mille-Feuille

In keeping with the sugar-filled theme from yesterday, mille-feuille makes a lovely treat for Valentine’s Day. I piped the top with pink and white royal icing, but the interior keeps its traditional pâte feuilletée {puff pastry} and crème patisserie {pastry cream}. After waiting through the “double turns,” I spent a lovely Saturday afternoon devouring my work.

Mille-Feuille Recipe

Puff Pastry

{Adapted from Foodbeam}

75 ml water

1/2 tsp. salt

175 g all-purpose flour

55 g unsalted butter, melted and cooled

187 g unsalted butter, softened

75 g all-purpose flour

Pastry Cream

{Adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets}

1 1/4 cups whole milk

3/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract

4 large egg yolks

1/4 cup + 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

3 Tbsp. cornstarch

2 1/2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

Royal Icing

2 cups confectioners’ sugar

1/4 cup water

Red food coloring

For the puff pastry, I halved the recipe but used the same measurements to form a thinner puff pastry. Dissolve salt in water, and set aside. Combine 175 grams flour and 55 grams butter in a food processor. Pulse until it forms coarse crumbs. With mixer running, pour in water. Mix until just combined. Roll to a 15 cm x 20 cm rectangle on plastic wrap, cover, and refrigerate. Mix remaining 187 grams butter and 75 grams flour with a hand mixer. Spread the butter mixture on plastic wrap to a 15 cm x 20 cm rectangle, cover, and refrigerate until firm. Roll dough to 20 cm x 30 cm, and fold over butter mixture {like a book}. See Foodbeam’s tutorial for the “double turns.” When ready to use, roll dough to 2 mm thickness. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place rectangle of dough on parchment, and chill for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place baking sheet in oven, and turn down temperature to 375 degrees. Bake for 10 minutes. At 10 minutes, place a wire cooling rack over the pastry to prevent further rising, and bake for another 15 minutes until golden brown. Let cool completely.

For the pastry cream, in a small saucepan, bring milk to a boil. Remove from heat. Add vanilla, and stir to combine. In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch until light in color. While whisking constantly, pour in milk in a steady stream. Pour mixture back in saucepan, and return to medium-high heat. Whisk constantly until the mixture thickens, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and pour into bowl. Whisk until silky smooth, about 2 minutes. Add butter and whisk to incorporate. Cover with plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator to cool completely.

For the royal icing, in a small bowl, mix confectioners’ sugar and water with a spoon to reach desired consistency. Divide in half in separate bowls. Use 2 drops red food coloring in one half, and mix until combined. Spread white icing over one layer of puff pastry. Place pink icing in pastry bag with a small round tip. Pipe parallel lines across white icing. Then, using a toothpick, gently score lines to form a pattern. Let dry completely.

To assemble, place two layers of puff pastry on a flat surface. Cover each generously with pastry cream. Place one layer on top of the other. Cover with the iced puff pastry layer. Chill in refrigerator for 1 hour. Cut gently using a serrated knife. Makes 6 large slices. Relish in a decadent patisserie as it flakes into a thousand leaves.