Thursday, September 8, 2011

A Field Guide to French Patisseries, Part Deux


Caramel: sugar and cream confection
Best Specimen: Jacques Genin

The first Field Guide to French Patisseries showcased the classics-millefeuille, saint honoré, mont blanc, religieuse, and macarons. Of course I had a list of lovely sweets to try on this past trip to Paris, but I also ventured out to try some non-traditional combinations. While caramel is nothing new, Jacques Genin has taken the flavor to a different level, with caramel éclairs, caramel paris brest, caramel walnut tart, and a dizzying array of soft caramels {including passion fruit, noisette, and chocolate}. For modern takes, Ladurée had a pistachio and cherry saint honoré while Pierre Hermé’s ispahan croissant combined rose, raspberry, and litchi. Here are some of my favorites.

Pistache-Griotte Saint Honoré: puff pastry crust, cherry custard cream, cherry compote, pistachio Chantilly cream, studded with small profiteroles
Best Specimen: Ladurée

Ispahan Croissant: buttery puff pastry filled with rose, raspberry, and litchi pâte, glazed, and topped with candied rose petals
Best Specimen: Pierre Hermé

Madeleine: a moist tea cake with a distinctive shell pattern; Secco’s are non-traditionally sweetened with brown sugar
Best Specimens: Secco, Blé Sucré

Tart Citron Avec Meringue: not your average lemon meringue pie, buttery crust, a thin layer of tart lemon custard, and a mound of airy meringue
Best Specimen: Le Loir Dans La Thiere


Perle et Rubis: almond crust, white chocolate mousse flavored with rose, raspberry coulis, fresh raspberries
Best Specimen: Gérard Mulot

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